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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. However, situated near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners totally shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.